Behind my apartment there is a wisteria tree that forms a
canopy over a picnic table and chairs. This setting is idyllic for reading The Fellowship of the Ring. I am not yet
finished with book one in the trilogy and already I’m becoming a Lord of the
Rings fanatic, excited about visiting Oxford this summer to channel Tolkien at the
pubs he used to frequent as part of his writing group, The Inklings. But when
I’m not losing myself in the realm of hobbits and elves and daydreaming about
where I will be traveling in the coming months, I am trying to enjoy all that
Istanbul has to offer. The sweet fragrance of peonies and lilacs in bloom, as
well as the excitement I feel about reading, has given me a burst of energy to explore
this city. Like Tolkien’s Middle-earth, Istanbul is a land of polarities: East
and West, old and new, Europe and Asia, conservative and modern.
Despite the solace of my wisteria tree, I need to flee my conservative neighborhood every once in a while for the restoration of my sanity. Last night, I took a dolmush (a shared taxi) to Kadikoy. This was after I couldn’t find coffee filters anywhere in Uskudar. I thought that in addition to the inhospitable “Damn you, crusader!” glares I’m occasionally subjected to, now I was feeling the shock of a terrible assault on American coffee. Okay, that is a ridiculous thought to run through my mind, but that is what coffee depravation does to me.
Despite the solace of my wisteria tree, I need to flee my conservative neighborhood every once in a while for the restoration of my sanity. Last night, I took a dolmush (a shared taxi) to Kadikoy. This was after I couldn’t find coffee filters anywhere in Uskudar. I thought that in addition to the inhospitable “Damn you, crusader!” glares I’m occasionally subjected to, now I was feeling the shock of a terrible assault on American coffee. Okay, that is a ridiculous thought to run through my mind, but that is what coffee depravation does to me.
Living in Uskudar, I find myself running away more than I
did as a teenager. I’m a little more practical when I run away now. Instead of
packing ten books in a backpack, thinking I’m going to be gone for several
months, I pack one book in my purse, and I think you can guess what book that
is.
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After lunch, we walked around Karakoy, a cool artsy
neighborhood in Istanbul. We went to a Russian Orthodox Church, an underground mosque,
and then took the ferry back to our own neighborhood, which provides a stark
contrast to the creative excitement of Karakoy. Despite the terrible film, I’m
still glad I went out today. If I hadn’t I wouldn’t have interacted with a
sweet boy. He was by himself, selling packets of tissues. I had sat down on a
stoop to photograph a golden retriever when this adorable boy appeared. I
photographed him with the dog and when he approached me, he smiled and said,
“Hello! How are you?” Most children who are wandering the streets alone,
begging, and selling packets of tissues, will tug on my clothes, cry, and yell
“Abla!” (Big sister.) I smiled back and told him how cute he was, which he
didn’t seem to understand. I felt the urge to hug him, but I buried this urge.
I gave him some money and he wandered off. I’m still thinking about him,
wishing I could adopt him and give him a brighter future than selling tissue
packets on the streets of Istanbul. I’m worried about a lot people these days,
but unfortunately, I cannot magically help them. When I am helpless to do
anything beyond giving a little bit of money, I suppose the only thing left to
do is hope for a brighter future.