Saturday, June 16, 2018

Feels like Yesterday

I feel as though not a day has passed since my last time in Istanbul. It's election time again, so everyone is bombarded with propaganda. Banners with Erdogan's face seem to have outnumbered homages to Ataturk. Vans with Erdogan's face on the side barrel down streets, blaring their political messages. I can remember some of the stressful aspects of living here: the crowds, the politics, the noise. But I also remember everything I love about Istanbul: the ferry rides, the food, the smell of roasted chestnuts, nargile, and spices. I miss seeing old friends and having intelligent conversations while walking down Bagdat Caddessi, dipping into coffee shops or Marks and Spencer to check out their sale racks. I miss Istanbul. I miss the students I taught here. I was telling friends one night that my ideal place to live is beautiful, with art and culture, friendly people, and a stable government. "Good luck with that" was the response. Does such a place exist? My friends and I visited some terrific restaurants in Kadikoy, my favorite being Şiraz, a lovely Persian restaurant. When you're enjoying exquisite food with good company it's easy to forget the stress that comes with living in a big chaotic city. Then you can just focus on the good things in life.








Thursday, June 14, 2018

Tbilisi


My friend Kelley and I have now explored six countries together, the most recent being Georgia. We thought it would be a good idea to go on one last trip together before she moves back to Iowa. After that, I may have to go to a Hawkeyes game and go tailgating if I need some quality Kelley time. I am ignorant about sports culture and reserved by nature, so the awkwardness of me at a football game strikes me as funny. Imagine Niles from Frasier if you need a better idea of how out-of-place I would be.

I prefer wine culture to sports culture, which thankfully, I was able to immerse myself in last weekend. We flew into Tbilisi and straight away noticed the calm, slow pace of life. The country is stunning, both in natural beauty and in architecture. We drank wine, ate delicious food, visited old churches, and rode a funicular to a hilltop amusement park, which offered spectacular views of the city. The weather was lovely. Georgian people are sweet and friendly. Their alphabet is beautiful. There was not a single thing I did not love about Tbilisi. It was just perfect.

Kelley talked about me living there in the future so that she could come visit me. The city seems very safe, with children walking around free of any accompanying adults. I agree Georgia looks like a wonderful place to live and raise children. Georgians are resilient and hospitable, qualities symbolized in a statue resting along a hillside in Tbilisi. The statue depicts a woman holding a glass of wine in one hand for greeting friends and a sword for greeting enemies. After multiple invasions from the Arabs, Persians, Turks, and Soviets, it’s impressive that Georgians have remained so friendly and hospitable. One lesson we can take from Georgian history is that you’ll encounter both friends and enemies in life. I am so fortunate that I was able to spend time in Tbilisi with one of my dearest friends, Kelley. No sword necessary. Just excellent wine, good conversation, and an amazing, beautiful, wonderful city.